Northern Lights Drive Iceland: Complete Guide to Finding Aurora by Car
Where to drive, when to go and how to read the aurora forecast. The essential guide for anyone who wants to see the Northern Lights by car in Iceland.
170 km between Gullfoss and Blönduós with no river crossings. Kerlingarfjöll, Hveravellir hot pool, and why this beats Sprengisandur for most drivers.
F35, known as Kjalvegur or the Kjölur route, runs 170 km through Iceland's central highlands between Gullfoss in the south and Blönduós in the north. It is the oldest highland route in Iceland — mentioned in medieval sagas — and today it is the most accessible and popular way to experience the Icelandic interior without the extreme demands of F26 Sprengisandur or F88 to Askja.
Unlike most F-roads, Kjölur has no major river crossings. The surface is maintained annually and consists of gravel and compacted sand that is manageable for standard 4WD SUVs in dry conditions. It passes between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers through a landscape of rolling highland desert, geothermal areas, and vast emptiness.
F35 typically opens in mid-June and closes in late September or early October. Check road.is for the exact status. In early season (late June), snow patches and soft ground may remain. The best conditions are typically July and August. September offers stunning autumn colours but shortening days and the risk of early snow.
The route begins just east of Gullfoss waterfall on Route 35 (paved). The pavement ends approximately 10 km past Gullfoss at the highland gate. Check conditions at the information board before proceeding.
Turn off F35 onto F347 (12 km spur road). Kerlingarfjöll is one of Iceland's most spectacular geothermal areas — steaming vents, hot springs, and colourful rhyolite mountains at 1,000 metres elevation. There is a mountain hut and basic camping. This stop alone makes the Kjölur drive worthwhile.
A highland oasis. Hveravellir is a geothermal area with a natural hot pool where you can bathe while surrounded by highland desert. There is a staffed mountain hut, a small shop (summer only), and basic camping. The hot pool is 38-40°C and absolutely worth the stop. Many drivers time their Kjölur drive to arrive at Hveravellir for a soak in the late afternoon.
The final section descends from the highlands into the Blanda river valley and eventually meets Route 1 near Blönduós. The descent is gradual and the road surface improves as you approach the lowlands.
F35 is the most forgiving F-road for standard 4WD vehicles. A Toyota RAV4 4WD, Hyundai Tucson 4WD, or Dacia Duster 4WD can handle this route in dry conditions. Ground clearance of 200mm+ is recommended. The road surface includes some rocky sections, particularly near Kerlingarfjöll, where lower vehicles may scrape. In wet conditions, the route becomes muddier and more demanding — a larger 4WD provides a better safety margin.
There is no fuel on F35. The last fuel station on the south side is in the Gullfoss/Geysir area. The first station on the north side is in Blönduós. Total distance without fuel: approximately 200 km (including the Kerlingarfjöll detour). A vehicle with a range under 350 km should carry reserve fuel.
If you have time for only one highland drive, Kjölur is the safer and more accessible choice. It offers genuine highland scenery — including Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir, which are among Iceland's top natural attractions — without the river crossings, extreme isolation, and Super Jeep requirements of Sprengisandur. Sprengisandur is for experienced off-road drivers seeking a challenge; Kjölur is for anyone with a 4WD who wants to see the highlands.
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