Driving Iceland in Shoulder Season: May and September Compared

The Sweet Spot Most Travellers Miss

Peak season in Iceland runs from mid-June through August. That is when you get midnight sun, the widest range of open roads, and the highest prices. It is also when you get tour bus convoys at Geysir, 90-minute waits at the Blue Lagoon, and hotel rooms that cost more than a nice dinner for four in Reykjavík.

The shoulder seasons — May through mid-June, and September through early October — offer a fundamentally different experience. You get most of the accessibility, dramatically fewer people, significantly lower prices, and arguably better photography conditions. You also get more weather risk and shorter daylight. This guide breaks down the trade-offs for drivers planning a shoulder season trip.

May: The Awakening

May in Iceland is transition month. The country shifts from winter to summer in a matter of weeks. At the beginning of May, you might encounter snow flurries in the north. By the end of May, the highlands are beginning to thaw and wildflowers appear in the lowlands.

Road conditions in May:

• Route 1 (Ring Road): Fully open and paved. You can complete the Ring Road in May without issues, though the northern section (Akureyri to Egilsstaðir) may have occasional ice patches on mountain passes early in the month.
• Westfjords: Main routes (60, 61, 68) are open. Smaller roads to Látrabjarg and Rauðasandur may still have snow closures in early May.
• F-roads: All closed. The highlands are still under snow. Do not attempt any F-road in May.
• Snæfellsnes: Fully accessible, all roads paved and clear.

Daylight: 18-21 hours by end of May. No true darkness from late May onward.

What you gain: Bird nesting season begins (puffins arrive mid-April to early May). Waterfalls run strong from snowmelt. Hotel prices are 30-50% lower than July. Popular sites like Skógafoss and Jökulsárlón are nearly empty at 8am.

What you lose: Highland access. Some northern hiking trails. A few tourist-dependent restaurants in smaller towns are still closed.

September: The Colours and the Lights

September is when Iceland transforms. The sub-Arctic vegetation turns red, orange, and gold. The moss-covered lava fields glow with colour. And from mid-September onward, the northern lights return — you cannot see them during the midnight sun months.

Road conditions in September:

• Route 1: Fully open early September. By late September, the mountain passes in the north may get the first snow. Check road.is daily.
• F-roads: Closing. Most F-roads close in the first or second week of September. F35 Kjalvegur may stay open until late September in a good year, but never count on it.
• Westfjords: Accessible early September, but weather becomes increasingly unpredictable. The Westfjords are the first part of Iceland to feel winter's approach.
• Snæfellsnes: Open throughout September.

Daylight: 15 hours at the start of September, dropping to 12 hours by month's end. True darkness returns, which is both a constraint and an opportunity (northern lights).

What you gain: Autumn colours across the entire landscape. Northern lights viewing from mid-month. Significantly cheaper flights and accommodation. Near-zero crowds at all attractions.

What you lose: F-road access (mostly). Some tourist-oriented services in small towns close after September 1. Weather is more unpredictable — rain, wind, and early snow are all possible.

Vehicle Choice for Shoulder Season

In peak summer, a small car works for the Ring Road. In shoulder season, consider upgrading:

• May: A mid-size SUV (Tucson, RAV4) is ideal. Higher clearance helps if you encounter late-season ice or unplowed gravel. 4WD is not strictly necessary for paved roads but gives confidence on wet or icy sections.
• September: A 4WD SUV is recommended, especially if driving the north or Westfjords. The first autumn storms can bring snow to mountain passes overnight. Having 4WD and good tires makes the difference between continuing your trip and waiting at a guesthouse.

Winter tires (studded or at minimum M+S rated) are legally required from November 1, but many experienced drivers fit them from early October. If visiting in late September, ask your rental company about tire configuration.

The Money Difference

A practical comparison for the same 7-day Ring Road trip:

July (peak):

• Mid-size SUV rental: 110,000–140,000 ISK/week
• Double room (mid-range hotel): 35,000–55,000 ISK/night
• Flight (London–Keflavík return): 45,000–80,000 ISK

May or September (shoulder):

• Mid-size SUV rental: 65,000–90,000 ISK/week
• Double room: 20,000–35,000 ISK/night
• Flight: 25,000–45,000 ISK

Total savings for a week-long trip: roughly 150,000–250,000 ISK (€1,000–1,650) per couple. That is the cost of a glacier walk, a whale watching trip, and three excellent restaurant dinners. The shoulder season pays for its own activities.